Yagazie Emezi is at the vanguard of visual storytelling on the African continent

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COLORS x EDITORIAL | NIGERIA

Yagazie Emezi is at the vanguard of visual storytelling on the African continent

Yagazie Emezi is a photojournalist based in Lagos, Nigeria. She was commissioned by COLORS to shoot a series of two self portraits exclusively for this editorial feature.

Vanessa Peterson speaks to the Lagos-based photojournalist about reclaiming agency, spotlighting underrepresented narratives, and why no one has “the authority to just take people’s photos” without first gaining their trust.

Photography and photojournalism are careers with no clear route: many work for decades before it becomes a viable career. A career path populated by men, it is especially rare to see a woman from the African continent taking control of visual narratives. The media view of Africans and Africa has traditionally been devised and constructed by outsiders, and is often still tinged with reductive biases and assumptions. African photographers bemoan the tendencies of photo editors based in Europe and North America to fly in external photographers for visual assignments, as opposed to working with image makers on the ground who invariably offer different perspectives.

One photographer who has managed to navigate the labyrinth-like bureaucracies of commissions and connections is Yagazie Emezi. A photojournalist based predominantly in Lagos, Nigeria’s cultural hub, her Instagram account and personal website showcase photo stories created for an array of prestigious clients, from The New York Times and The Washington Post to National Geographic and Architectural Digest.

Emezi takes my call from a bustling airport cafe on the way back from a commissioned assignment that she can’t yet tell me about. When I ask her how she found her way into photojournalism her answer is clear: through dogged determination.

Growing up in a family of storytellers in Aba in southeastern Nigeria, Emezi realized at an early age that she enjoyed everything creative. After a spell in the United States for school where she experimented with blogging, YouTubing, and managing a website highlighting African artists, she moved back to Nigeria with the hope of starting a television show about African women and their sexualities—conversations often held behind closed doors due to shame and stigma. When it didn’t work out due to financial challenges, photography emerged as a way for Emezi to combine her creative impulses and develop something new.

In 2015, Emezi was introduced to the founder of Lagos Fashion Week, Omoyemi Akerele, who invited her to take backstage photographs of models preparing for the runway. This opportunity gave her career momentum, and soon after she began working with luxury fashion houses in Lagos and developing her photography skills. Then, another offer arrived: a non-profit organization asked her to relocate to Liberia’s capital, Monrovia, to work with women and girls in the capital’s densely-populated West Point township. Arriving in the city only two weeks after the initial invitation, Emezi spent time with the women—who she excitedly describes as dressing with “bright pink braids with […] blue eyeliner, and green lipstick”—discussing what beauty means away from a western-centric framework. The question she asked was a simple one: “what is your standard of beauty?”

A photograph taken by Emezi in West Point, Monrovia, Liberia

“If it’s not your space, you do not have the authority to just take people’s photos.”

West Point, Monrovia, Liberia

This line of investigation runs through the core of Emezi’s photographs: she’s committed to centering the voices of those traditionally ignored or disregarded, and asking her audience to rethink what they believe they already know about sexuality, African women’s desires, beauty, health, and human rights. The photographs from her time in West Point are arresting: women wearing vivid clothing and a plethora of hairstyles, such as braids and cropped afros, boldly meet and hold the camera’s gaze against colorful backdrops. They present a wildly different view to images in wide circulation where clear power disparities are often visible.

West Point, Monrovia, Liberia

When I ask Emezi about what it takes to build this level of intimacy and trust with subjects she tells me that one thing that is absolutely necessary is a “fixer,” a community member or reliable organization that the people she is working with know and trust. For her, the days of risky street photography are over. “I cannot approach people, it’s too much stress. If it’s not your space, you do not have the authority to just take people’s photos… You never go into a space by yourself,” she says. Emezi uses a straightforward analogy to explain her approach: if someone walked into your garden and started taking photographs of you, you’d be suspicious. But if they walked into your garden with one of your good friends, or someone known in the local neighborhood, you’d be slightly less alarmed. This level of care is what makes people feel comfortable to let Emezi in and share their stories with her.

West Point, Monrovia, Liberia

Emezi’s time in Monrovia led to an introduction to a photo editor at The New York Times, which has enabled her get to where she is today, balancing commissioned photo stories—covering topics as varied as women’s leadership in Rwanda and migration due to climate change in Chad—with her own personal practice. For the latter, she creates bodies of work away from social media that are viewable to museums, galleries and collectors. While influenced by her photojournalism practice, these projects are also markedly different in tone and subject. Emezi has been working on them for several  years—a markedly slower pace in comparison to the quickfire turnaround times often expected with commissioned works—and considers them an opportunity to create work about her life, especially in relation to ideas of nostalgia and her upbringing in Nigeria.

Emezi is at the forefront of storytelling on the African continent. She’s part of a new vanguard dedicated to reclaiming agency and spotlighting underrepresented narratives. While she views many of her stories as instrumental, one of her most memorable was when she collaborated with a writer to cover the aftermath of former Gambian president Yahya Jammeh’s 22-year reign in office for The New York Times. Emezi describes meeting the mother of a man who had been brutally killed during Jammeh’s premiership, and what it meant to photograph someone who has gone through so much pain and suffering. “The women have always been talking, fighting, speaking up, trying to raise awareness […] I’m simply in awe of them. They’re activists in their own right.” Emezi’s work is also a form of activism, one dedicated to changing narratives and perspectives.

Experimental image created by Emezi in collaboration with Nigerian designer Eki Kere
Experimental image created by Emezi in collaboration with Nigerian designer Eki Kere

“The women have always been talking, fighting, speaking up, trying to raise awareness… I’m simply in awe of them.”

Experimental image created by Emezi in collaboration with Nigerian designer Eki Kere

We end by talking about Lagos itself and what it offers as a city. Emezi is firm when she tells me that it’s the place that has offered her a home and a sense of community. It’s clear that she excels at what she does because of technical skill, rigor, and a tenacity to not give up or back down. She is firmly in control. To me, the work she makes will act as an important visual archive of Lagos, Nigeria, Africa, and the myriad, complex lives of those who live there for decades to come.

Yagazie Emezi is a Lagos-based photojournalist who has produced stories for an array of prestigious clients, from The New York Times and The Washington Post to National Geographic and Architectural Digest. To find out more about her work, check out her Instagram or website.

This article was written as part of COLORS’ editorial coverage in line with a recent production period in Lagos, Nigeria in Spring 2022. Head over to our YouTube channel to watch the shows we produced with Nigerian artists, or to our editorial platform to read more articles about the Lagos skate scene, the founder of West Africa’s first contemporary art fair, or fashion designer Bubu Ogisi.

Text: Vanessa Peterson
Photography: Yagazie Emezi

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Don’t give up on covering such stories…!!!
You have inspired many.
Bravo and keep it vehement. 🦅💪🏿🐾

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