COLORSxSTUDIOS

While Ethnicity was initially attracted to the colorful and striking patterns on brocade fabrics, as they delved deeper into the topic, they discovered that each brocade pattern is imbued with indigenous knowledge and values. For team member Chenin, who is responsible for research at Ethnicity, one of the key steps to understanding a minority’s brocade pattern is learning about their religious beliefs. Every ethnic group in Vietnam has its own distinct customs, gods, and worldview, resulting in a variety of symbol systems and different interpretations of the patterns. As a result, the same pattern can have different meanings for different communities. While the K’ho people (Lâm Đồng), for example, view a pattern with four symmetrical golden streaks through a central red dot as a depiction of the God of the Sun, and representative of the importance of keeping an optimistic spirit and finding light even when faced with darkness, the Mường people (Thanh Hoá) see the same pattern as indicative of the hibiscus flower, which is often planted in front of homes to ward off evil spirits and bring good luck to the family.

All of the information and visuals that Ethnicity collects during their research trips is added to their digital library, an impressive computerized compilation of more than 200 illustrations of brocade patterns. The e-library is not only a repository for data, however. According to Thao Vy, one of Ethnicity’s founding members,  it also provides a means for integrating traditional brocade patterns into contemporary life. The aim is to make them accessible as a source of creative inspiration for designers and artists worldwide.

All of the illustrations in the library are vectorized using modern software, presented in both realistic and pixelated styles, and accompanied by detailed descriptions of their surface level and spiritual meanings. They are also categorized into four sections—conservation, development, application, and illustration—which have their own special features. The development section, for example, offers modified versions of brocade patterns in both color and black and white line drawings created in collaboration with local artists. Conversely, the application section includes templates that designers can use to “apply” the patterns to their own work.

The remote living conditions of Vietnam’s ethnic minorities, coupled with the fact that many of the weaving artisans are elderly and only rely on word-of-mouth teaching methods, have made it difficult to accurately research and preserve the brocade culture. Globalization and cultural exchange have also increased the influx of other nations’ patterns, such as those from Japan, China, and America. As they become ubiquitous in Vietnamese markets, native brocade patterns are increasingly overlooked. However, with Ethnicity’s technological acumen, innovative thinking, and design prowess, they are developing an engaging, modern platform that brings Vietnamese Indigenous craft closer to modern society, and will hopefully inspire a new generation to discover the rich crafts and cultures existing across the country.